Dr. Elliott.

o doubt it sounds like an urban legend: A medical doctor with a degree from the University of Michigan decides to practice family medicine in little Rapidan, Virginia. On an outing to one of the myriad regional festivals she comes home with a border collie and starts thinking how she can help the dog fulfill its genetic capability. She solves the conundrum by adding sheep. With the sheep she decided she needed to elevate her amateur dairy-making skills to the next level and enrolled in an apprenticeship program in Wisconsin to become a licensed dairy farmer.

This is no fantasy tale but a brief biography of Dr. Pat Elliott, a Renaissance woman who operates Everona Dairy—Virginia’s only licensed sheep dairy farm, officially launched in 1995.

A true believer in keeping everything functional and simple, she laughs and says she hasn’t bought a loaf of bread since medical school. Along with bread-making, she now makes her own butter crackers to complement the cheese flavors. You get the feeling there is little Pat Elliott cannot do.

Now she has 150 sheep, 10 border collies (sheepherders), and 10-year old Julie, a Polish Tatra, who clearly understands her pivotal role in herding. She is top dog, the boss, as she protects the property and its inhabitants from any interference. Dr. Elliott calls her a great watchdog that needs to take a pup and start training her. All the players seem to understand their roles. The collies are great helpers, she says, as they “anticipate so much” and herd the sheep for the twice-daily milkings.

Currently on the 10-acre farm, they produce over four tons of milk annually and anticipate that figure to increase significantly. Dr. Elliott praises the soil, the terroir, which she says is as good for cheese-making as it is for the local winemakers.

When you go to farmers’ market in Williamsburg, Charlottesville, or Alexandria (and soon to the District of Columbia’s Dupont Circle), the name “Everona Dairy” is familiar. Dr. Elliott personally presides over the Williamsburg table, but occasionally visits the other locations. These markets are fun for her. “I like to go where people know and appreciate cheese,” she says. Her lively spirit comes across when she talks about any aspect of the business. There is a lilt to her voice as she talks about the “girls,” one of whom had just had a baby overnight. It’s a mutual admiration society, as the sheep seem to perk up when they hear her voice as she enters the barn.

Walking the farm, she happily explains all aspects of the business and is delighted to show off the aging room, where it all comes together. Sheep cheese, she says has twice the vitamins and protein and twice the solids of cow’s cheese. These are all called “farmstead cheeses,” a term that means they are made on the farm from the farm’s own animals.

Dr. Elliott is an active member of the American Cheese Society and enjoys showcasing her products. In 2005 she was honored with the “Farmhouse Award” for sheep’s milk cheese at the Society’s annual competition. She describes that winner and her first product, the aptly named “Piedmont,” as the mainstay of her production. It is a rich, nutty cheese with a sweet aftertaste. The lingering taste, Dr. Elliott says, is a way to recognize a sheep’s cheese—“it stays sweet.” Often she’ll add to their Piedmont line with infused chives or dill to broaden the flavor profile. Several other mainstays are part of the Everona catalog: “Stony Man,” with its smooth, dense texture, and “Everona Marble,” recognizable by a line of ash running through it.

Her love of cheese-making has Elliott thinking about expansion. She would like to make more cheeses, get better fencing so the animals are safer, and build another barn for milking. Currently, six animals at a time are milked twice a day; doubling the milking stalls would help speed up the process and guarantee even more cheeses. Weekends are busy as Everona offers tours and sells its products to visitors. An expanded sales room will help visitors learn about cheese-making.

If cheese does not excite you, Everona also sells lamb, blankets, rugs, and socks. Call ahead to schedule a tour, which includes a visit with the sheep. 540-854-4159. 23246 Clarks Mountain Road, Rapidan, www.everonadairy.com.